I wouldn't be able to tell with conviction, but I think Rineke Dijkstra's portraits caused the first big wave about some sort of new portraiture. While I like the beach portraits very much, I think the rest is not even close to those. See more samples here and here; and compare with Hellen van Meene's work who Rineke Dijkstra is often compared with (mostly due to intellectual laziness: They're both from Holland).
